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For science modding ancient asetek


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...Yeah I don't know where the rumour started that AIOs are not serviceable...with just a bit of research, it was quite easy when I did mine. The only 'guessing' was an educated guess re. the amount of fluids that had evaporated or solidified as I measured the amount left when I opened mine up last year (after 8 yrs running).

 

Generally, I prefer building custom loops for high output system (read 220W+ watt peaks) but with three AIOs in service (1x 240mm, 2x 360mm), they have their advantages in medium-duty applications.

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2 hours ago, J7SC_Orion said:

...Yeah I don't know where the rumour started that AIOs are not serviceable...with just a bit of research, it was quite easy when I did mine. The only 'guessing' was an educated guess re. the amount of fluids that had evaporated or solidified as I measured the amount left when I opened mine up last year (after 8 yrs running).

 

Generally, I prefer building custom loops for high output system (read 220W+ watt peaks) but with three AIOs in service (1x 240mm, 2x 360mm), they have their advantages in medium-duty applications.

Funny your fluids were way more gross. The fluid that came out of this was pretty clear. I didn't save it though.

 

Ok we decided it would be easier to leak test it over the paper towel if we dyed the water with easter egg dye. Afterwards I read the side of the box, and the main ingredient is... propylene glycol?

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5 hours ago, damric said:

Funny your fluids were way more gross. The fluid that came out of this was pretty clear. I didn't save it though.

 

Ok we decided it would be easier to leak test it over the paper towel if we dyed the water with easter egg dye. Afterwards I read the side of the box, and the main ingredient is... propylene glycol?

 

...the AIO 240 I fixed had steady temps for 8 yrs right until I started moving the rad around. My guess is that it shook deposits loose that had 'crusted' on the bottom of the rad/tank and then went through the loop. You might try to  shake your modded setup (especially the rad) to see if there's a similar build-up which normally is harmless, until it crumbles free.

 

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Just now, J7SC_Orion said:

 

...the AIO 240 I fixed had steady temps for 8 yrs right until I started moving the rad around. My guess is that it shook deposits loose that had 'crusted' on the bottom of the rad/tank and then went through the loop. You might try to  shake your modded setup (especially the rad) to see if there's a similar build-up which normally is harmless, until it crumbles free.

 

It didn't leak while running overnight so I think I'm going to flush it really good now. I'm guessing that there must be a really hard crust like you said (we call that a protective oxide layer in the nuclear reactor world). I'm thinking maybe boiling water, acetic acid, shaking, ect, but I'm not going as far as the HCl route.

 

We're thinking of mounting this on one of our junker graphics cards to see how well it does. My teenage son is very involved in this project, and stuff like this is like a science lab for him. He came up with using the mason jar as a reservoir for me yesterday. The kid has a mechanical mind of how things work, always borrowing my tools and electrical test equipment.

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30 minutes ago, damric said:

It didn't leak while running overnight so I think I'm going to flush it really good now. I'm guessing that there must be a really hard crust like you said (we call that a protective oxide layer in the nuclear reactor world). I'm thinking maybe boiling water, acetic acid, shaking, ect, but I'm not going as far as the HCl route.

 

We're thinking of mounting this on one of our junker graphics cards to see how well it does. My teenage son is very involved in this project, and stuff like this is like a science lab for him. He came up with using the mason jar as a reservoir for me yesterday. The kid has a mechanical mind of how things work, always borrowing my tools and electrical test equipment.

 

...yeah, great family project ! Your son's idea of adding the mason jar / reservoir has a lot of advantages 👍 , for example 'overflow' etc because you don't have to know the exact ml amount to put in at a given temp. On my AIO operation plus modding, I never took the tubes off but instead took the bottom of the Asetek CPU unit off...I wanted to see if the little pump impeller had been damaged when the crust disintegrated and 'flushed' through the loop. Then, after thorough flushing, I just refilled it to the point of overflow, then let a few ml back out for heat expansion etc.  and it's been happy ever since.

 

BTW, if you folks are looking for good affordable fans (ie when using the modded AIO for a GPU), check out those Arctic P12 pwm pst value packs (5x 120mm fans per pack)...I tried a few on my 'big' systems (up to 5x rads, 1200 W peak) and they performed flawlessly (around 1800 rpm), so I bought 3x 5 pack more. I noticed prices are going up for those, though 🤨

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Just now, J7SC_Orion said:

 

...yeah, great family project ! Your son's idea of adding the mason jar / reservoir has a lot of advantages 👍 , for example 'overflow' etc because you don't have to know the exact ml amount to put in at a given temp. On my AIO operation plus modding, I never took the tubes off but instead took the bottom of the Asetek CPU unit off...I wanted to see if the little pump impeller had been damaged when the crust disintegrated and 'flushed' through the loop. Then, after thorough flushing, I just refilled it to the point of overflow, then let a few ml back out for heat expansion etc.  and it's been happy ever since.

 

BTW, if you folks are looking for good affordable fans (ie when using the modded AIO for a GPU), check out those Arctic P12 pwm pst value packs (5x 120mm fans per pack)...I tried a few on my 'big' systems (up to 5x rads, 1200 W peak) and they performed flawlessly (around 1800 rpm), so I bought 3x 5 pack more. I noticed prices are going up for those, though 🤨

 

I actually ordered two of those 5 pack P120 PSTs a few days ago for my big big water project involving a 1080 rad from Avacado. I was very impressed with them after I did the IceGiant testing.

 

The acid flush has barely started and there is already a huge piece of trash I see flying through the loop, so something broke loose just from chemical shock. We decided we're going to pour boiling water through the rad fins to thermally shock it, then mechanically agitate it, perhaps with padded hammer blows. Then flush with distilled water again.

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Oh no, I think it's given up the ghost.

 

It started the tiniest of leaks about an hour or so into the acid flush, so I shut it down, wiped up the tiny droplets, and then it wouldn't start again. I'm guessing it leaked internally into the transformer or something. I'm going to take it back part and let it dry out but I'm pretty sure that pump is toast lol. It was a fun little project, but it never did see it's way back to cooling anything.

 

The copper radiator I might do something with at a later date, who knows.

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8 minutes ago, J7SC_Orion said:

...there are o-rings in there - may be they didn't like the acid, depending on type ?! Have you taken the block / pump body apart ? You might be able to save it yet 

I just took it apart again and cleaned all the silicone out I put in there yesterday. It's possible that a piece of whatever was just blocking it up or something because now it spins once again.

 

There's one O-ring, and I think that's the problem with it leaking despite me stuffing it with silicone as best I could. I'm hesitant to use my pipe putty, but I do have some Flex Seal. I might try that tomorrow.

 

The good news is all the rest of my real water cooling parts arrived today from PPCs. All I'm missing is that big ass radiator that Avacado will hopefully be shipping out this weekend.  I opened the box of that dual D5. That thing is HUGE! No wonder it was so expensive. It looks like it could pump a swimming pool.

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20 minutes ago, damric said:

I just took it apart again and cleaned all the silicone out I put in there yesterday. It's possible that a piece of whatever was just blocking it up or something because now it spins once again.

 

There's one O-ring, and I think that's the problem with it leaking despite me stuffing it with silicone as best I could. I'm hesitant to use my pipe putty, but I do have some Flex Seal. I might try that tomorrow.

 

The good news is all the rest of my real water cooling parts arrived today from PPCs. All I'm missing is that big ass radiator that Avacado will hopefully be shipping out this weekend.  I opened the box of that dual D5. That thing is HUGE! No wonder it was so expensive. It looks like it could pump a swimming pool.

Not hopefully. Will. 

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1 minute ago, Avacado said:

Not hopefully. Will. 

 

I'm very excited. I'll be taping out exactly where my mounting will go over the next couple days. This pump might have to go outside as well.

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52 minutes ago, damric said:

I just took it apart again and cleaned all the silicone out I put in there yesterday. It's possible that a piece of whatever was just blocking it up or something because now it spins once again.

 

There's one O-ring, and I think that's the problem with it leaking despite me stuffing it with silicone as best I could. I'm hesitant to use my pipe putty, but I do have some Flex Seal. I might try that tomorrow.

 

The good news is all the rest of my real water cooling parts arrived today from PPCs. All I'm missing is that big ass radiator that Avacado will hopefully be shipping out this weekend.  I opened the box of that dual D5. That thing is HUGE! No wonder it was so expensive. It looks like it could pump a swimming pool.

  

...I've used the stuff below on literally anything, from fixing up weak o-rings on a PC pump to layering it around a big fuel line that leaked where it entered a 850 Rochester Quadrajet carb back in the day on my car (lasted for over 200k km until it had to come off for a rebuild).

 

For PC pump purposes, you can use it (sparingly) on the side of the o-ring that 'seats' in the pump housing, let it all dry up as it hardens a fair amount - then apply the softer regular silicone on the other side before re-assembly. 

 

SealAll.thumb.jpg.c750dd4a68709790f57dc29f18f5d058.jpg

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Alright I ran around to various hardware stores, auto parts places, kitchen faucet repair shops, hose and sprinkler repair places, ect until I found several O-rings to try on the pump and some rubber grommets and small O-rings for the tubes. I'm putting this back together now and I got to let the sealant dry. I didn't use as much sealant this time and was very careful with it. I only spent maybe less than $10 on this project.

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Ok officially done investing anymore time into that pump-block. It leaked again after about 3 hours. I told my son I'll just get him a cheap pump and universal block if he wants to play around with that copper radiator. It's a very slow leak, so slow that I'm still using it to flush that radiator. I'm curious so I marked the water level on the "reservoir" and I'll check it in the morning to see exactly how much was lost.

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2 hours ago, damric said:

Ok officially done investing anymore time into that pump-block. It leaked again after about 3 hours. I told my son I'll just get him a cheap pump and universal block if he wants to play around with that copper radiator. It's a very slow leak, so slow that I'm still using it to flush that radiator. I'm curious so I marked the water level on the "reservoir" and I'll check it in the morning to see exactly how much was lost.

  

...interested to find out what level it is at in the morning. As to cheap universal GPU coolers, there's always 'Banggood.com' (no, really) >here  ...slightly more expensive (than $5...) is the Swiftech mcw82; I've used several of them for tri- and quad SLI w/o any issues in the past.  FYI, depending on the GPU your son wants to w-cool with a universal GPU cooler, he would also need to rig up a fan to cover the VRM & VRAM 

 

...speaking of Banggood.com , here's s.th. @Avacado , @Bastiaan_NL , @BWG and their fellow folding enthusiasts would probably like...

 

Spoiler

HeHe 311845017_banggood3450WPSU.thumb.jpg.b11c8d16436b976ba02b5f13e7bcb6bd.jpg


 

 

Edited by J7SC_Orion
typo
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1 minute ago, J7SC_Orion said:

  

...interested to find out what level it is at in the morning. As to cheap universal GPU coolers, there's always 'Banggood.com' (no, really) >here  ...slightly more expensive (than $5...) is the Swiftech mcw82; I've used l of them for tri- and quad SLI w/o any issues.  FYI, depending on the GPU your son wants to w-cool with a universal GPU cooler, he would also need to rig up a fan on the VRM & VRAM 

 

...speaking of Banggood.com , here's s.th. @Avacado and @Bastiaan_NL would probably like for their folding adventures...

 

  Hide contents

HeHe 311845017_banggood3450WPSU.thumb.jpg.b11c8d16436b976ba02b5f13e7bcb6bd.jpg


 

 

Funny you said that. While we were leak testing, I was trying out my new grinder and blade on some old chipset heatsinks just for that purpose. My dumbass burned myself just enough to hurt like hell when I touched the heatsink after I cut it. My brain was like "don't touch it" and the tips of my fingers were like "shut up brain" lol.

 

That was while we were thinking about still mounting it on a bobo graphics card.

 

Now that we reset the project, we decided to have that radiator cool a bobo CPU instead. I ordered a $20 waterblock on ebay direct from China...what could go wrong! Also a curiously cheap $22 pump from PPCs, OMG what am I thinking?

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8 minutes ago, J7SC_Orion said:

  

...interested to find out what level it is at in the morning. As to cheap universal GPU coolers, there's always 'Banggood.com' (no, really) >here  ...slightly more expensive (than $5...) is the Swiftech mcw82; I've used several of them for tri- and quad SLI w/o any issues in the past.  FYI, depending on the GPU your son wants to w-cool with a universal GPU cooler, he would also need to rig up a fan to cover the VRM & VRAM 

 

...speaking of Banggood.com , here's s.th. @Avacado , @Bastiaan_NL , @BWG and their fellow folding enthusiasts would probably like...

 

  Hide contents

HeHe 311845017_banggood3450WPSU.thumb.jpg.b11c8d16436b976ba02b5f13e7bcb6bd.jpg


 

 

I'm good on PSUs, I promise. 

 

20210226_221801.jpg

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Just now, damric said:

Ooh I've been eyeing a new SuperFlower Leadex III ever since they started selling on newegg!

 

The SuperFlower Leadex 2000 W model is the choice of many workstation integrators (Yangcom S.Korea > here )...just not sure how that monster would work @ 110V...I use Antec HPC Platinum 1300W  PSUs (which have an OClink for dual) for heavy lifting but connect each to a different circuit

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